剧情简介：**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** “Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading Hemingway on bullfighting; William Burroughs on controlled substances; Updike on adultery. . . . a coming-of-age story, seen through the gloss resin coat of a surfboard.” —Sports Illustrated Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List Barbarian...(展开全部)
作者：William Finnegan
出版社：Penguin Books
ISBN：9780143109396
